By commuter train from Belgrade: Valjevo, Užice and Vršac

No car? A guide to suburban trains, part 1

If you don't have your own car in Serbia, that's no reason at all to stay at home. There are commuter trains! We're launching a guide to trips by commuter train! Part one is from Ed @zzzloyed — our enthusiastic guide🙏🏻

🚂 Part 1: Train trip to Valjevo ⚡

How to get there?
The train departs from Beograd Centar / Novi Beograd / Zemun stations. The ride takes about 1.5 hours one way. Get off at Valjevo station.
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What to see?

1. The Gradac river
A clean and picturesque river you can walk along and
swim in during the summer heat (or not in summer, if you really want to). Along the way there are lots of cafés with drinks ranging from beer to raspberry smoothies.

Spots:
It's best to head from town to the river starting at the old mill:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/dU6XFZtKEqbCTUHf6
The mill works on weekends and you can even buy freshly ground flour.

Swimming spot and cave:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RujwDKgE9MBnY7Lw9
A nice little spot with easy access to the water, and this year tables appeared too. As a bonus there's a small cave. I recommend bringing water shoes or Crocs: it's more comfortable to move over the river stones.

Artificial rapids:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/EaNschN8tYkr8rVAA
Another great place for a picnic and chilling to the sound of water.

Tried-and-tested cafés by the river
A small disclaimer: all the cafés are seasonal and open from April to November.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/gCP5FQGKaLzJ4bTN7 A café with tables right by the water, and a tasty raspberry smoothie.
The tables are available off-season too, and you can sit there with your own stuff, no problem.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZsNhyAHSM7qksZgf7
Another cute café, the tables are set right by the water, and you can even get into the water here if you like.

2. Tešnjar
The old part of town, preserved from the times when Valjevo belonged to the
Ottoman Empire. It's pedestrian and usually deserted, so you can wander and take photos in peace — and Serbian TV series are filmed here too)
On the map:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gfhsb52tr58TdnCo9

3. Pećina park and the Valjevo brewery Park:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/sL57EswRZmzxj58k6
Brewery and shop: https://maps.app.goo.gl/CSegG24wCvGA1wFo8
A pretty nice park, but for me the most interesting thing is that it's the best way
to walk to the Valjevo brewery, which has a branded shop with merch. And you can grab some beer too and drink it in the quiet park.

4. Valjevo center
The center is pretty typical for small towns in Serbia. In my opinion it's enough
to stroll down Kneza Miloša street — cafés, little shops, nothing really wow.

Where to grab a bite?
Caffe Menli Valjevo
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Z8ju4Q7hWEfgQmqx9 Tasty food, a great location in the shade of trees, right on the way to the river and the center. As for
food, I strongly recommend trying the Valjevska šnicla (the portion is big and hearty, so be careful) and the Lava kolač (chocolate fondant, perfect with a coffee).
Hemingvej
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Yg8Awa68AF981eYP9
I liked the location, right in the very center, next to Tešnjar and the pedestrian street.
🍻Pivnica Tchardak
https://maps.app.goo.gl/zzkqRisZR63WJDVn6

A small beer bar with local flavor — a great place to end the day.

So you don't get lost, I can add a GPX track — ask in the comments

All photos by EdShots

Train trip to Užice, part 1 🚈

Published July 14, 2025 · Open post in Telegram ↗

🚂Train trip to Užice, part 1.

Here's the next part of the commuter train trip guide from our guide @zzzloyed

Read the start of the guide — Valjevo by train — here

So how long and where to go?

The train leaves from Beograd Centar / Novi Beograd / Zemun, and the ride takes about 3.5 hours one way. You need to go to UŽICE station. So bring something to drink and something to snack on. Be sure to grab a window seat. After Valjevo there's lots of beauty — the train runs through a river valley with great views. Mobile signal there isn't great, so you won't be able to stare at your phone ;-)

I strongly recommend staying overnight — that way it's more comfortable both to walk in nature and to explore the interesting spots in town.

🛶1. The Đetinja river gorge

The longest and most scenic route runs along the Đetinja river valley on a paved road: no challenges or hardships, no tracks and so on. There are no ascents or descents, you just walk and enjoy the views, and it's beautiful there at any time of year. The path goes through old railway tunnels. This used to be a narrow-gauge railway line to Bosnia. The Šargan Eight on Tara is a restored section of the same line.

Start of the route: https://maps.app.goo.gl/PDzZKBgWMVGd2ZMm8
And then follow the road without really turning off anywhere — it's hard to get lost.

📸Interesting spots

Velika brana
https://maps.app.goo.gl/eHzShSqWKFpoaKWF9
A dam-slash-waterfall: you can look at it from the bridge, but it's more interesting to get closer — a safe path runs along the left side, with good views. And if you really want to, you can climb onto the dam itself — it's breathtaking up there. But that's for the especially brave, and I'm not encouraging it)
There's a second path: you can get to the water in front of the dam and take photos. The path starts from the water intake right after the bridge — first to it, then through a hole in the fence (spot: https://maps.app.goo.gl/aer29YF6tFAVZaCV6)
You can also go kayaking here: https://klisuradjetinje.rs/kajakarenje/
But to me the route they offer is really short, and it doesn't seem worth it. Exploring the dam will be more interesting.

Picin vir
https://maps.app.goo.gl/LZKEjtseWtzzvnRY7
A scenic bend in the canyon: you can go down to the water and swim, and there are a couple of tables for a snack. It's especially picturesque in autumn, when the clouds hang on the treetops.

Noname channels
https://maps.app.goo.gl/PgtY4ncpGt5UgsHQ9
A narrow part of the canyon with rushing water. Especially cool after heavy rains. There's a bench to sit and zone out.

Staparska Banja
https://maps.app.goo.gl/uxan2XBDf4kZziHH7
Thermal springs, open only in summer; at other times you can simply walk down to the river. The Stapari railway station is right here, and from it you can get back to Užice on a passing commuter train. (Just make sure you don't accidentally go the other way — to Montenegro)

Other spots
The road and trail continue further, but that's a really long route, better done by bike. You can walk it too, but I haven't gone that far yet. A map of the whole route is here: https://klisuradjetinje.rs/zelena-staza/

Also, on the way to Stapari you can walk part of the way along the river on the old road that existed before the railway was built. The river there was picturesque in autumn, but in summer I don't think it's worth it because of the grass and ticks.

There's also a hiking trail along the top of the canyon; judging by the maps it starts from Velika brana and goes up. But I haven't done this route, so I can't say how easy/hard it is or whether it's worth doing at all. If anyone wants, I can send the gpx track and a photo of the route map from the info board.

Continuation of the Užice guide

All photos by EDSHOTS 🔥
More beauty in the comments

Published July 28, 2025 · Open post in Telegram ↗

🚂Train trip to Užice, part 2.

The continuation of the commuter train trip guide from our guide @zzzloyed

Read the start of the guide — Valjevo by train — here

Train trip to Užice, part 1

2. Užički Stari Grad
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RcWgABuJotH9gB3C6
A cool old fortress that's definitely worth visiting once; it has a great view of the town, and you can clamber around too (especially if you ignore the «no entry» signs — though I'm not encouraging it). And if you have a drone, the best view of the fortress is from the Zlatibor road (from here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ki4Q9CXxWZBCztXU8)
3. Mala hidroelektrana ,,Pod Gradom“ and the city park
https://maps.app.goo.gl/1B7PshPkRb5MgTcP8
An old power station (dating all the way back to 1900, Nikola Tesla and all that) and a park around a cascade of dams. There's a museum in the hydropower plant, but I've never once seen it open.
Museum contacts: https://klisuradjetinje.rs/stara-hidrocentrala-pod-gradom/
I suspect visits are by appointment only.
There's a secluded spot in the park, and it's great there in the evening and at night 👍, location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/FosbL2QDPXJDX9Go7

The park is cozy; I especially like it closer to night, when all the sights are lit up and the views are really something. You can have drinks on the benches.

4. The special "Štrudlarnica"
There's a small family pastry shop in Užice where they make homemade strudel: apple, cherry — just like from grandma's oven. Sooo tasty
https://maps.app.goo.gl/Mk2nCmSHj6fsp2cn9

5. National Museum of Užice
https://nmuzice.org.rs/en/about-the-museum/
I haven't been there myself, but it looks worth a visit, especially if the words "partisans" and "history" stir something inside you.

6. Other spots

Viewpoint above Užice
https://maps.app.goo.gl/KeYSyYG9ybj5Bvfi8
Looks interesting, but it's a long and steep way up — a spot for the daring

Old railway bridge
https://maps.app.goo.gl/4DR6VdEQ9yHBo5mx6
An old bridge literally plastered with market stalls. A vivid example of how not to do it — a 90s market vibe is definitely present. An acquired taste.

Where to eat and drink?

Restaurant Vagon
https://maps.app.goo.gl/PjYdPw4rRgkvAd1Q9
Located right by the station (who would've thought). It's fun that it's in a railway carriage, but overall it's a standard eatery.

Cafés on Trg Partizana
https://maps.app.goo.gl/8sfoetzGfqmzfjzTA
They're all pretty standard, pick one to your taste

Moja Reka
https://maps.app.goo.gl/avJzafGTEcpHkExV9
To my taste, the best spot — in the park, with a terrace. And the food was tasty. It pairs perfectly with a nature walk as the final stop.

Happy travels, and to be continued🚈…

All photos by EDSHOTS 🔥More beauty in the comments

Published July 29, 2025 · Open post in Telegram ↗

By commuter train to Vršac: the guide continues

Happy Monday, Balkan folks! Here's the long-awaited continuation of the guide to independent travel by commuter train from our guide @zzzloyed

🚂 Train trip to Vršac, part 1.

III. Vršac
How long and where to?
The commuter train departs from Beograd Centar / Novi Beograd / Zemun / Vukov Spomenik, and the journey takes about 1 hour 40 minutes one way. You need to go to VRŠAC station. The train is small, so grab your seats and window spots quickly. On the way there are mesmerising views of the Banat fields with wind turbines. It's honestly one of my favourite rides, worth taking just to «look out of the window and think about the eternal».

In good weather I recommend going for the weekend and staying overnight: the train schedule is such that the last one leaves at 18:40, and you might not get to enjoy the sunsets, and there are some great spots to watch them from. In my opinion, the optimal plan is to leave not too early on Saturday and come back around lunchtime on Sunday.

What to see?
1. The town itself
Vršac is interesting in its own right: lots of old houses and lots of interesting details. On the way from the station to the center (which is here https://maps.app.goo.gl/QSGncTSU7MqZHA13A), every street has something to look at: old wooden doors, worn handles, lacy drainpipes, cats in the windows. Just don't stare at your phone while you walk :)

Of the really interesting spots you should definitely pass by:
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZZWjkiqaCyYFxnsS7 - an old bridge, possibly once a drawbridge
https://maps.app.goo.gl/C3QrGhZj44Mj8sX39 - the Orthodox cathedral, impressive inside, and again lots of little houses all around.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HP1R3kpsRVEtZHGx8 - Trg Svetog Teodora Vršačkog, the town's main square. It's pedestrian, and on weekends there are often fairs where you can pick up something cool (pumpkin rakija, for example).

https://maps.app.goo.gl/U1KPuTykw7cuo9DBA - Apoteka Na Stepenicama, an old pharmacy dating all the way back to the 18th century. It worked as a pharmacy until 1971 and is now a museum. Worth going inside and strolling around. Open from 10 to 16, on Sundays until 17, if the museum's website is to be believed.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/jWmM6XLW3qwop6cw8 - the city park, it's no Kalemegdan, of course, but it's a perfectly fine place to sit when it's hot.

2. Crkva Svetog Gerharda
https://maps.app.goo.gl/JNxrV1abzy9Bg3rx8

A magnificent Roman Catholic church, drawing in its details on medieval Gothic culture. To me it's quite unique for these parts, and it visually dominates the centre. Unusual. It's currently under restoration, and it's totally unclear how to get inside. If you manage it, let us know. Reportedly, there are beautiful stained-glass windows and an organ inside.

3. The Vršac hills: Kapela Svetog Krsta + Vršački zamak
A hill with a fortress, a nice café and a vidikovac (viewpoint). Definitely worth the walk, luckily the climb isn't hard and anyone in sneakers can manage it (in flip-flops too, but I wouldn't do that).

It starts from here (https://maps.app.goo.gl/63PAc8sRK516Tjv99), with a long climb up the stairs. (The hardest part, in my opinion, because the stairs just go straight up.) On the way up, pay attention to the white pillars and the bas-reliefs on them — there's a very famous scene there). Then tell us in the comments what you think of the idea of those who built and designed all this).

Kapela Svetog Krsta

The stairs lead up to Kapela Svetog Krsta https://maps.app.goo.gl/somEn91EkPHbMh549
It's the oldest Catholic church in the Banat and apparently the oldest building in Vršac. Today it's a bit lost among the sprawling town and its buildings. I'm sure it once looked great, towering over the town. There are benches and a viewpoint here too, a great place to catch your breath before moving on. And don't forget to finish looking at the scene on the white pillars. Unfortunately the church itself is closed and only opens for rare services. If you're lucky enough to get inside, send us your photos.

Continuation of the Vršac guide.

All photos by EDSHOTS 🔥
More beauty in the comments

Published December 8, 2025 · Open post in Telegram ↗

🚂 Train trip to Vršac, part 2.

Continuation of the guide to independent travel by commuter train from our guide @zzzloyed

Read the beginning of the Vršac train trip here

Café Challenge
https://maps.app.goo.gl/BGenpeNSSTtyqVZs7

A café with a fitting name, especially if you decide to walk up to it in summer). You can sit here, think about life, and drink a coffee or some rakija (their quince one is excellent). The food situation is unclear: in spring they have pancakes, in late autumn only drinks. Pure Serbian randomness, so bring a snack for your rakija just in case.
It's a dangerous spot: you can easily sit too long and get stuck, and then you'll be too lazy to go on to the fortress and the viewpoint, so be careful. Right next to the café there's a mini viewpoint over the town with benches, so you can settle for that if climbing higher feels like too much.

Vršački zamak
https://maps.app.goo.gl/zc82c4iRSrpR2XME7

To me it's a fortress like any other fortress, but the view from here at sunset is good. The fortress is open until 5; I haven't been inside, because I love sunsets more.

Vidikovac Turban
https://maps.app.goo.gl/2nAtmDDzw6mSq7F87

A great viewpoint, a short walk from the fortress with a small climb. It comes with views, benches, one chair and even a table. In my opinion it's a great spot for a picnic. Good for night photography too, tried and tested. Be careful on the rocks, there's a drop below.

For hikers
You can walk to Lisičija glava
https://maps.app.goo.gl/PTRvHCAFRFifMhe36

The highest point of Vojvodina. I haven't been myself, since there are no super views there. But it'll do just fine for anyone who wants a hike, and on the way back you can down a beer at Challenge, completing the hiking challenge :)

Disclaimer for drone pilots: there's an active airfield near the town, so fly carefully and at your own risk.

4. Where to eat and hang out
I've already described Café Challenge, so here's just the link again: https://maps.app.goo.gl/NNHQ5zZRmBdfkuxj6

Pizzeria Masters
https://maps.app.goo.gl/T1u7XwVEcMo8Dx178

A good place, the menu is mostly pizza, and quite tasty. They have local wine. Conveniently located at the end of the route down from the hills. Open until 22.

Etno Kuća Dinar
https://maps.app.goo.gl/SPfQrUnTG7BtRpu79

An ethno restaurant with Serbian food, an extensive menu and lots of people. A perfectly good place for a leisurely dinner. Open until 24.

Coffee District — Specialty Coffee
https://maps.app.goo.gl/P8GRU4Pj8Cb3ga2E7

A good coffee shop with a big choice of coffee. You can have it right there or to go.

Caffe Priča
https://maps.app.goo.gl/82i8bXxbtG9N45YEA

An atmospheric café-kafana. This is the place to sit and down a rakija with your kafa; there's a motorcycle inside. Worth stopping by just for that). No food.

Element
https://maps.app.goo.gl/KeWTf7LXox5kmzHi7

A café-restaurant, one of the few open until 1 a.m. The food is more or less standard; it's conveniently located right in the center.

Djordjevic 1854
https://maps.app.goo.gl/q4PNrTd6Xbp4Lam8A

An ice-cream café that supposedly has been open since 1854 and keeps up family traditions. IMHO it's worth a visit. If you try the ice cream or a pastry with family traditions, let us know what you think)

I've written everything I know about Vršac; if you have additions about what to see or where to hang out, write in

All photos by EDSHOTS 🔥
More beauty in the comments

Published December 11, 2025 · Open post in Telegram ↗